The Lake District: A guide for rain-lovers

I was a bit baffled at the reaction I got after announcing that we were going to camp in the Lake District this September.

“It’s a bit wet up there.” someone commented, without a trace of irony.

Of course it’s bloody wet, I thought. That’s why they call it the Lake District.

“Awful lot of rain.” they added, as if trying to put me off the idea.

Ignoring the naysayers, hydrophobes and dubious weather forecasts, we drove up to the scenic wilds of Cumbria with my parents, tents packed and boots strapped, ready for some serious hiking and campfires under the stars.

Lake District scenery: Honiston Pass

I was determined to see the Lakes while back in England. Aside from the fact that the landscape and natural beauty were my sort of destination, it was also a bit embarrassing admitting to people that you’d never actually set foot in a national park that’s only three hours from your parents’ house.

I’d been told the area was reminiscent of Milford Sound in New Zealand, without as many Chinese tour buses. Steep hills disappearing into all-enshrouding clouds, vast expanses of water and relentless rain.

Lake District scenery: Honiston Pass

In fact, so much rain falls in the Lake District that the village of Seathwaite near the centre of the region was once named as the wettest place in England.

Undeterred by this trivia, we decided to brave the elements and pitch up our tents for six days near Keswick in the north Lakes. Besides, Nate and I had once spent almost a month living in a tent on New Zealand’s west coast: “Even if it’s as wet as fiordland, we can handle it.” we said deludedly.

Looking out to Derwent Water in the Lake District

Our first trip out from the campsite was not into picturesque Keswick, a stone’s throw from the farm where we were staying, but to a town just outside the national park itself: Workington. I want to blame my dad for this bizarre trip (he has some strange ideas about what makes for an ideal tourist destination), as he’s the one who led us there, but it was more to do with a defective car battery and a catastrophic shortage of soya milk. My old man was simply taking us to one of the the biggest shopping centres in the region to help us out.

Aside from shopping, things to do in Workington are somewhat in short supply. Put politely, the town is a bit of a sh*thole.

It’s not the residents’ fault. In fact, almost every person we engaged with in this bleak, post-industrial town was salt-of-the-earth, genuinely pleasant and friendly. In many ways, they reminded me of folks in my own birthplace of Mansfield, another armpit of an ex-mining town in the Midlands, where the last thing left to be proud of is the local community’s ability to hang on in the face of economic adversity.

The reasons for deprived places like Mansfield and Workington stem from the decline of industry and the rise of globalisation. One by one, the northern steel-works and coal-mines closed. Communities dependent on industry as a source of pride and a defence against idleness swiftly fell into dysfunction and were blithely ignored by fat cats in the ivory towers of London, especially during the Thatcher-era.

But I digress.

Workington should still be proud for its connections to the steel-working industry. It was in this town that the Victorian inventor Sir Henry Bessemer applied innovative processes to steel-making that revolutionised the industry and remained mostly unchanged for almost a century afterwards. The resulting cheapness of steel manufacturing spurred on the development of railroad all over the world. Stands to reason the old genius Bessemer was knighted as a result.

Photo of Henry Bessemer courtesy of

Our trip into Workington was more a mad dash to repair our car, so the only photo I got from the town was of this rather striking and mysterious green building:

A random building in Workington

After convincing my dad that the prettier places were inside the Lake District (he’s always been utilitarian by nature), we drove back into the national park. Much to our relief, my parents seemed quite stirred by the postcard-landscape around us and were happy to continue hiking, rather than shopping in Wilko’s or drinking coffee in Workington’s Costa. We marched them through the dales and over streams and up to hilltop viewpoints to see the sheep and misty folds of Buttermere.

A view of Buttermere with sheep included

Our exploration of the Lake District had finally begun in earnest.

The next day, we pootled around Keswick next to Derwent Water. Predictably, it chucked it down again, so we sheltered from the wet weather in a couple of the town’s cafés.

Rainy Keswick town square

We ate a very hearty breakfast in the Wild Strawberry café, and enjoyed lunch at the Little Chamonix. Keswick is also a walker’s paradise, where outdoors stores are as numerous as pound shops in Workington, so you don’t have to panic if you accidentally drop your boots in the Wastwater (incidentally the deepest lake in England); there are plenty of places to buy new ones here.

The Wild Strawberry cafe

Frankly, the whole of the Lakes is perfect for hiking, especially if you want stunning views included. Deciding where to walk in the Lakes is the tricky part, as there are so many accessible trails around the district.

In the afternoon, we had my parents on a march again, this time towards the summit above Dodd Wood, on the slopes next to Bassenthwaite Lake (the Lake District’s only true lake; all the rest are classed as meres or tarns but I still have no clue what the difference is).

A view of Bassenthwaite in the Lakes

We spotted plenty of toadstools and fungus in the damp undergrowth beneath the pines in the forest. Sadly, no sign of any ospreys in the treetops though.

Toadstools and fungi in Dodd Wood, Lake District

At the top of hill was Dodd Summit, where we had epic views of Bassenthwaite and Derwent Water, not to mention some of the 40 peaks visible from this point.

Bassenthwaite Lake in Cumbria

After our stroll back down the mountain, we had a relatively rainless evening by the campfire, playing a very profane game of Cards Against Humanity under the stars. Dad managed to fall through his camping chair before the end of the night.

Nate and Mark by the campfire

In the morning, we awoke to find our camp had been invaded by a horde of hungry chickens.

Baloo the dog and Nate encounter chickens at the campsite

They seemed undaunted even when Nate threatened to renounce his veganism and add them to our lunch.

An unexpected delight of the northern lakes was the Derwent Pencil Museum in Keswick. Titter ye not, but this little place was pretty exciting for two artists: The world’s first pencil; the world’s largest pencil; colouring books galore. Even if you don’t usually orgasm over pencils, there’s also the fascinating story of how the Pencil Factory was a secret workshop during WW2, turning out innovations to aid British spies. This place was a base for the original Q of James Bond fame!

Feeling artistic after the museum, Nate and I drove southwards on a drawing quest, through Ambleside and along the banks of Windermere, past Wordsworth’s walks and close to Beatrix Potter’s home.

We had decided to challenge ourselves by having a no-photography day. Nate was the instigator of this project, as I’m the sort of person who probably needs to have his camera surgically removed from his hand. With access to